Dewinterizing Powersports Vehicles in 7 Easy Steps: A Comprehensive Guide for Owners​

If you’ve stored your powersports vehicle—whether it’s a motorcycle, ATV, UTV, snowmobile, or jet ski—over the winter, properly dewinterizing it is critical to ensure safe operation, prevent costly damage, and extend its lifespan. Failing to prep your ride after months of inactivity can lead to dead batteries, corroded components, fuel system failures, and more. The good news? With a structured approach, dewinterizing is straightforward. Follow these seven easy steps to get your powersports vehicle back on the trails, roads, or water with confidence.

​Step 1: Inspect the Storage Environment and Clean the Vehicle​

Before diving into mechanical checks, start with the basics: assess where your vehicle was stored and give it a thorough cleaning. Winter storage conditions directly impact its condition. Did you keep it in a garage, shed, or outdoors? Was it covered, or exposed to moisture, snow, or pests?

​What to do:​​

• ​Remove the cover (if used):​​ Shake off debris like leaves, dirt, or rodent droppings. A damp cover can trap moisture, leading to mold or rust.
• ​Clean the exterior:​​ Wash off road salt (if stored outdoors), mud, or winter grime. Salt accelerates corrosion on metal parts, so use a mild soap designed for powersports vehicles. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a microfiber cloth to avoid water spots.
• ​Check for pests:​​ Look under the seat, in the airbox, and around wiring for nests, chewed wires, or droppings. Rodents often seek shelter in warm, enclosed spaces. Use a flashlight to inspect tight areas, and replace any damaged wiring or insulation.
• ​Wipe down the interior:​​ For ATVs/UTVs, vacuum or wipe the cabin floor and seats. For motorcycles, clean the chain and sprockets with a degreaser to remove old lubricant that may have attracted dirt.

​Why it matters:​​ Cleaning removes corrosive substances and prevents debris from entering sensitive components during the dewinterizing process. A clean vehicle also lets you spot new issues (like rust or cracks) more easily.

​Step 2: Revive or Replace the Battery​

Batteries are often the first casualty of winter storage. Even if disconnected, lead-acid batteries lose 3-5% of their charge monthly; lithium batteries fare better but still degrade over time. A dead battery won’t just leave you stranded—it can sulfate, reducing its lifespan.

​What to do:​​

• ​Check the battery type:​​ Most powersports vehicles use lead-acid (flooded, AGM, or gel) or lithium-ion batteries.
• ​Test the charge:​​ Use a multimeter or a battery tender to check voltage. A fully charged lead-acid battery reads ~12.6V; anything below 12.4V needs charging. Lithium batteries should be ~13.6-13.8V when fully charged.
• ​Charge or replace:​​ If the battery is low, charge it slowly (use a smart charger set to “maintain” mode to avoid overcharging). If it’s more than 3 years old or won’t hold a charge, replace it—old batteries rarely recover fully.
• ​Reconnect properly:​​ If you disconnected the battery for storage, reconnect it, starting with the positive terminal (+) and then the negative (-). Tighten connections to avoid loose cables, which can cause voltage drops.

​Pro tip:​​ Invest in a battery tender (a device that trickle-charges batteries at storage voltage). Many owners leave tenders connected year-round to avoid winter discharge.

​Step 3: Service the Fuel System​

Gasoline degrades over time, especially in winter when temperatures fluctuate. Old fuel can form varnish, clog injectors or carburetors, and damage fuel pumps. Ethanol-blended fuels (common in most regions) are particularly problematic—they absorb water, leading to phase separation (where ethanol and water separate from gasoline), leaving a gummy residue.

​What to do:​​

• ​Drain old fuel:​​ If the vehicle was stored with fuel, drain the tank and lines. Use a siphon pump to remove gas, then dispose of it properly (never pour it down a drain).
• ​Clean the fuel system:​​ For carbureted engines, remove and clean the carburetor with a carb cleaner. For fuel-injected models, use a fuel injector cleaner (follow the manufacturer’s instructions). Replace the fuel filter—clogged filters worsen fuel delivery issues.
• ​Refill with fresh fuel:​​ Add ethanol-free gasoline (if available) or use a fuel stabilizer with ethanol blends. Stabilizers prevent varnish formation and keep fuel fresh for 6-12 months. Fill the tank to 90-95% capacity to reduce condensation, which introduces water.
• ​Prime the system:​​ Turn the key to “on” (without starting) to let the fuel pump pressurize the lines. For older vehicles, you may need to cycle the throttle a few times to prime the carburetor.

​Red flag:​​ If the engine sputters, coughs, or won’t start after refueling, old fuel residue is likely the culprit. In severe cases, a professional fuel system flush may be needed.

​Step 4: Lubricate Moving Parts and Change Engine Oil​

Months of inactivity can dry out lubricants, leading to friction, wear, and even component seizure. Engine oil, chain lube, and pivot points all need attention.

​What to do:​​

• ​Change the engine oil and filter:​​ Even if you changed oil before storage, contaminants (like condensation) can accumulate. Drain the old oil, replace the filter, and fill with fresh oil meeting the manufacturer’s specs (e.g., 10W-40 for most motorcycles, SAE 30 for some ATVs). Dispose of old oil at a recycling center.
• ​Lubricate the chain:​​ For chain-driven motorcycles, clean the chain with a degreaser, then apply a high-quality chain lube. Wipe off excess to prevent attracting dirt. For belt-driven models, inspect the belt for cracks or fraying.
• ​Grease pivot points:​​ Apply marine-grade grease to suspension linkage, control levers (clutch, brake), and swingarm pivots. This prevents rust and ensures smooth movement.
• ​Check other fluids:​​ Brake fluid, coolant, and hydraulic fluid (for lifts or winches) should be at the correct levels. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time—replace it if it’s dark or murky. Coolant should be tested for freeze protection (aim for -34°F/-37°C or lower for most regions).

​Step 5: Inspect Tires, Wheels, and Suspension​

Cold weather and storage can warp tires, corrode wheels, or seize suspension components. Proper tire pressure and alignment are critical for safety.

​What to do:​​

• ​Check tire pressure:​​ Use a reliable tire gauge to measure pressure. Underinflated tires wear unevenly and reduce traction; overinflation makes them prone to blowouts. Inflate to the PSI listed on the sidewall or owner’s manual.
• ​Inspect tread and sidewalls:​​ Look for cracks, bulges, or cuts. Winter storage can cause dry rot (especially in UV-exposed areas). If tread depth is below 2/32 of an inch (or you see cords), replace the tire.
• ​Check wheel bearings:​​ Lift the vehicle and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock, then rock it side-to-side. Excessive play indicates worn bearings. Spin the wheel—if it’s noisy or doesn’t rotate smoothly, bearings may need replacement.
• ​Test suspension:​​ Bounce the front forks (motorcycles) or push down on the seat (ATVs/UTVs). If it feels stiff, sticky, or makes noise, the suspension may need servicing (e.g., replacing fork seals or shock fluid).

​Step 6: Test Electrical Systems and Lights​

Corrosion, loose connections, or dead bulbs can leave you without lights, signals, or critical functions like starter motors.

​What to do:​​

• ​Check all lights:​​ Turn on the headlight (high and low beams), taillights, brake lights, turn signals, and hazard lights. Replace any burnt-out bulbs.
• ​Test switches and controls:​​ Twist the throttle—does it return smoothly? Squeeze the brakes—do they feel firm? Test the kill switch, clutch lever, and any auxiliary buttons (like heated grips).
• ​Inspect wiring harnesses:​​ Look for frayed wires, melted insulation, or loose connectors. Repair or replace damaged harnesses to prevent short circuits.
• ​Charge accessories:​​ If your vehicle has a winch, GPS, or audio system, test them to ensure they’re drawing power correctly.

​Step 7: Take It for a Test Ride—and Adjust as Needed​

The final step is to verify everything works under real-world conditions. A short test ride reveals hidden issues before you hit the trails at full speed.

​What to do:​​

• ​Start slow:​​ Begin in a flat, open area. Test acceleration, braking, and cornering. Does the engine run smoothly? Are there any unusual noises (knocking, rattling)?
• ​Check handling:​​ Lean into turns—does the bike/ATV feel stable? Is the steering responsive? For snowmobiles or jet skis, test acceleration on water or snow to ensure track or ski engagement.
• ​Monitor gauges:​​ Watch the temperature, oil pressure, and fuel level gauges. Overheating or dropping oil pressure signals a problem (e.g., low coolant, clogged oil filter).
• ​Adjust as needed:​​ If the handlebars are misaligned, the suspension feels off, or the throttle sticks, address these issues before extended use. Keep a log of your test ride notes to track maintenance over time.

​Why Dewinterizing Matters: Long-Term Benefits​

Skipping dewinterizing might save time now, but it risks costly repairs later. Corroded fuel lines, seized engines, or damaged tires can cost hundreds—or thousands—in repairs. By following these seven steps, you’re not just prepping your vehicle; you’re investing in its reliability, safety, and value.

​Final reminder:​​ Every powersports vehicle is unique. Always consult your owner’s manual for manufacturer-specific recommendations (e.g., some snowmobiles require winterizing fluids to be flushed, while jet skis need impeller inspections). If you’re unsure about any step—especially with complex systems like fuel injection or suspension—visit a certified mechanic.

With proper dewinterizing, your powersports vehicle will be ready to deliver thrills all season long. Take the time to care for it now, and it’ll take care of you on the trails, water, or trails.